How to Shift Gears on a Bike: Cadence, Climbing, Cornering and Braking

Learning how to shift gears on a bike is one of the most rewarding skills you can master. It transforms cycling from a constant struggle into a smooth, efficient, and enjoyable experience. Whether you’re facing a steep hill, picking up speed on a flat, or navigating a tricky corner, being in the right gear makes all the difference. This guide will walk you through the fundamentals of your bike’s gearing system, the concept of cadence, and the specific techniques for shifting when climbing, cornering, and braking.

Understanding Your Bike’s Gearing System

Most beginner bikes have two sets of gears: the front chainrings (attached to the pedals) and the rear cassette (attached to the rear wheel). These are controlled by two shifters on your handlebars.

Front Shifter (Left Hand): This controls the front chainrings. Shifting here makes a big, noticeable change in how hard it is to pedal. Moving the chain to a smaller chainring makes pedaling easier (a lower gear for climbing). Moving it to a larger chainring makes pedaling harder (a higher gear for speed on flat or downhill sections).

Rear Shifter (Right Hand): This controls the rear cassette. Shifting here makes smaller, incremental adjustments to your pedaling resistance. Moving the chain to a larger cog on the rear makes pedaling easier. Moving it to a smaller cog makes it harder.

Think of it this way: the front shifter is for major terrain changes (like going from flat to a hill), and the rear shifter is for fine-tuning your effort within that terrain.

The Key to Smooth Shifting: Cadence

Cadence is simply the speed at which you pedal, measured in revolutions per minute (RPM). A smooth, consistent cadence is the secret to efficient cycling. It helps you conserve energy, reduce strain on your knees, and maintain momentum.

Most cyclists find a comfortable cadence between 70 and 90 RPM. You can practice this by counting how many times one knee comes up in 30 seconds and doubling it. The goal is to shift gears to maintain this cadence as the terrain changes. If your pedaling slows down and feels labored (low cadence), shift to an easier gear. If your pedaling spins too fast with little resistance (high cadence), shift to a harder gear.

How to Shift Gears for Climbing

Climbing is where good shifting technique pays off the most. The golden rule is: shift early.

1. Anticipate the hill. As you see the incline approaching, shift to an easier gear before you start climbing. Trying to shift under the heavy load of a steep hill is difficult, can damage your chain, and often leads to a stalled bike.
2. Use your front shifter for big changes. If it’s a long or steep climb, you’ll likely need to drop to your smaller front chainring. Do this while you’re still on flat ground or at the very bottom of the incline.
3. Fine-tune with the rear. Once in your smaller chainring, use your right shifter to move to easier gears in the rear as the climb progresses, keeping your cadence steady.
4. Stay seated and spin. A steady, seated climb in an easy gear is often more efficient and saves energy compared to standing and mashing the pedals in a gear that’s too hard.

For more on building the stamina for climbs, see our guide on Building Cycling Endurance and Recovering Well as a Beginner.

Avoiding Cross-Chaining

Cross-chaining occurs when you use the most extreme gear combinations, putting the chain at a severe diagonal angle. This is typically when you’re in the largest chainring in the front and the largest cog in the rear, or the smallest chainring in the front and the smallest cog in the rear.

This position creates extra friction, causes premature wear on your chain and gears, and can lead to noisy, inefficient shifting. A good rule of thumb is to avoid these extreme combinations. If you need an easier gear while in the big chainring, it’s often better to shift to the smaller chainring and adjust the rear gears accordingly.

Shifting for Cornering and Braking

Your gear choice is crucial for maintaining control and momentum through technical sections.

Cornering

You want to be in a gear that allows you to pedal smoothly out of the corner to regain speed. The technique is to shift before the corner.

1. As you approach the corner, slow down and complete your braking before you turn.
2. While still upright and straight, shift into a gear that will let you accelerate smoothly out of the turn, usually a little easier than the gear you were cruising in, since you will be pedaling from a lower speed.
3. Coast through the turn with your inside pedal up, then begin pedaling smoothly as you exit.

Braking

Shifting and braking are closely linked. When you see a reason to slow down or stop—like a red light, stop sign, or sharp turn—your sequence should be:

1. Shift first. As you begin to coast and before you brake hard, shift down to an easier gear (a couple of clicks on your rear shifter). This prepares you to start pedaling again easily from a stop or low speed.
2. Then brake. Apply the brakes smoothly to control your speed.

This prevents you from being stuck in a hard gear when it’s time to start pedaling again, which can be a struggle and strain your knees. For more on control, explore our other riding skills articles.

Frequently Asked Questions

What should I do if my gears are making a grinding noise?

Grinding or skipping usually means the gears are out of adjustment or you are trying to shift under too much pedaling pressure. First, ease your pedal stroke when shifting. If the noise persists in specific gears, your derailleur may need tuning. This is a common maintenance task best learned from a mechanic or a detailed guide, or you can take your bike to a shop for adjustment.

Is it bad to shift while standing on the pedals?

It’s best to avoid it when possible. Shifting while standing puts your full weight and power through the chain, which can make the shift clunky and increase wear. If you must shift while standing (like during a sudden, steep climb you didn’t anticipate), try to momentarily sit down and lighten your pedal pressure as you click the shifter.

How many gears do I actually need?

For most beginner riding—commuting, fitness, and recreational road or trail riding—the number of gears is less important than having a good range. A bike with 1x (one front chainring) or 2x (two front chainrings) systems can work perfectly. Focus more on learning to use the gears you have effectively to keep your pedaling comfortable.

How does shifting relate to a training plan?

Using your gears effectively to maintain a target cadence is a fundamental cycling skill that supports any training goal. It allows you to manage effort, complete longer rides, and recover properly. A structured approach can be found in our Beginner Cycling Training Plan: Your First Eight Weeks.